For the Capitol Hill diner, taking a step back in time is as easy as walking through the double set of doors at Mr. Henry’s Victorian Pub.
The outside of the corner restaurant, located at 601 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, is reminiscent of an old-fashioned saloon, with dark wood paneling and a brassy, thick-lettered sign.
The inside of the eatery, also known as Mr. Henry’s Capitol Hill Restaurant, is packed wall-to-wall with tables, each covered in bright red and white gingham tablecloths that accent an otherwise wooden motif. Covered lamps set the mood, casting a dim light off the burnt red ceiling and wood-paneled walls.
With a single waitress at lunchtime, service isn’t always speedy, but the restaurant’s décor offers ample distractions to keep diners occupied.
A random array of wall hangings gives the joint a homey feel. Black and white Victorian-era portraits, many of nude women, are interspersed with religious statements —“Thy Will Be Done” — and playful warnings — “Keep Your Hands off the Waitress.” Dusty bottles, a covered candleholder and an antique chandelier add an extra dose of historical design.
The restaurant’s food, however, blasts diners back to the present. The meat-laden menu is typical American fare, featuring bulging burgers, greasy appetizers and fried seafood at reasonable prices.
The sandwich choices are the most extensive part of the menu, with offerings from Reubens to Philly steaks to tuna melts. A pulled-pork barbecue sandwich came out with a mountain of slivered pink meat, while the crab cake sandwich offered a petite patty on an enormous doughy hamburger bun. Each sandwich is served with a smattering of colored tortilla chips, pickles and coleslaw for about $10.
A side of thick and flat homemade french fries, at $4.95, can be jazzed up with cheddar cheese and chili toppings for a dollar or less.
Libations are clearly one of Mr. Henry’s specialties. A fully stocked bar offers an extensive array of hot and cold mixed drinks. Many may be too stiff for lunch, but a bar sign encourages indulging: “God does not deduct from our allotted life span the time spent drinking.”
Seasonal Rum Cider, a heated mix of Captain Morgan and apple cider that is as potent as it is soothing, is a current special. Miller Lite, Rolling Rock, Sam Adams and Mr. Henry’s Red Lager are on tap.
An affable, talkative staff rounds out an experience of cozy and casual dining that almost makes one forget the modern-day stresses awaiting outside Mr. Henry’s heavy wooden door.
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