Don’t be afraid to chill a red

Last week I was trapped in a small, cramped commercial jet parked on the tarmac in 90-degree heat. To make matters worse, the plane’s air conditioning system was broken, leaving the air so stiflingly humid that I was seriously considering breaking into the overhead compartment for the emergency oxygen mask.

To keep our sanity as we waited for takeoff and drink service — and prevent us from breaking several FAA regulations and general rules of decorum — my seatmate, a colleague, and I mused about beverages that would actually make us feel less refreshed in the situation. “Hot chocolate. Jägermeister,” I offered.

“Red wine isn’t refreshing? Ever try it chilled?” I asked. Her empty stare revealed her answer.

I was surprised by her reaction. Granted, most reds don’t benefit from a chill. But there are varietals and styles that can be enhanced by some cooling. The owner of my neighborhood wine shop describes the process as making these wines “pretty.”

Cold reds are particularly good this time of year, when refreshment is a must-have quality in a drink. While white wines are spring and summer standards, I can sympathize with those who echo the popular “whites are fine, but they’re just not as complex as reds” refrain. (Note: Before the e-mails start pouring in, my respect and affinity for whites is well-documented in the archives of this column.)

Chilling reds to positive result requires some attention to detail — only a few grapes and styles are suitable to be served cold. Heavier varietals, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel, become bitter when their temperature is lowered. Their fruit quickly withdraws, tannins take over, and you are left with something that tastes closer to chewing tobacco than wine.

Lighter grapes, like Pinot Noir and Gamay, which are mostly fruit-forward, are generally better to chill. But you have to be mindful of the individual expression of the grapes you are choosing. More rich and complex styles popular in New World wines will act like their heavier-grape cousins. But if the wine is too light, the cold will mask its subtle flavors, and you’ll be left with expensive Kool-Aid.

I recommend the Jean Marc Burgaud Regnie “Vallieres” 2007 ($16). This wine comes from the Beaujolais region of Burgundy, France, where the sandy soil creates round, supple wines. This Gamay grape expresses a wildflower nose and bright cherry and apricot flavors. When colder, the fruit really sings.

There are exceptions. Cabernet Franc is a robust grape most frequently blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in Bordeaux. Despite having all the characteristics of bigger red wine, and for some reason I can’t explain, some Cab Francs improve at a lower temperature. The Puydeval 2008 Vin De Pays D’Oc ($14) is a good example. This blend, which is 60 percent Cab Franc, 28 percent Syrah and 14 percent Merlot, offers a nose of earth, leather and spice followed by walnut, dark chocolate and black cherry flavors. At room temperature these flavors taste flabby, like they’ve melted together. A little chill gives them a clean, crisp edge. It’s like Yoo-hoo, America’s famous chocolate beverage — not so good warm, but it really comes together when cold.

To chill a red wine properly, place it in the refrigerator for about an hour or in the freezer for 30 minutes. Or you can put it in a bucket of ice and water for 20 minutes. I recommend serving it slightly warmer than you would a white.

Derek M. LaVallee, director of public relations and public affairs at KG Partners and a certified wine buff, can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .