Mid-priced wines a haven during economic hard times

There have not  been many bright spots in the tenuous economy of the past few years. Collectively and individually we’ve had to make sacrifices and do more with less. However, one encouraging trend for consumers emerging in the mending marketplace is the growth and availability of quality mid-priced wines.

According to recent reports by industry analysts, the economic recession has had little impact on the U.S. wine industry as a whole. By volume, wine sales rose 3 percent last year, building on a 2 percent increase in 2009. (Is anyone surprised Americans tipped their elbows a little more during the crisis?) That said, distributors have had to slash prices and reduce inventories as many wine drinkers, myself included, migrated to less expensive bottles.

The laws of supply and demand are currently working in favor of consumers who still want to enjoy satisfying whites and reds while staying in the black. In 2010, wines priced between $9 and $12 a bottle rose 12 percent, and those priced between $12 and $15 rose 10 percent. Wine drinkers who by necessity may have been forced down the price scale the past few years seem to be satisfied with the bargains they’ve discovered there.

It is with no small amount of personal satisfaction that I amplify this news. Anyone who knows about my passion for the grape — from an occasional reader of this column to those in my wine-drinking circles — knows that I can’t refrain from proselytizing the ever-increasing quality of mid-priced wines.

I believe $15-$20 wines are the sweet spot of the market. Of course this is a sweeping generalization and one full of exceptions, but if you’re selecting a bottle on cost alone, this range consistently delivers the strongest price-quality ratio. For example, the difference in overall craftsmanship of an $18 bottle is likely to be exponentially better than that of a $9 bottle. But comparing a $36 bottle against the $18 bottle, the average palette wouldn’t perceive the same exponential improvement. In my experience the price-quality curve doesn’t reliably spike again until you get in to the $50 bottle range.

Here are two examples I like that represent the modest investment-maximum return category.

2009 Elk Cove Vineyards Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, $19.99. It starts out with sweet and unctuous aromatics while showing crispness on the palate with pear, apple and grapefruit flavors. A rich mouth-feel leads to a full and satisfying balanced finish of almond notes.

Georges Duboeuf Moulin-a-Vent 2009, $17.99. This aromatic red is well balanced with a thread of minerality running through it. It shows attractive flavors of flowers and fruit, particularly violets and bright cherries followed by a juicy, velvety finish.

As the economy comes back to life, raise a guilt-free glass of good wine to your increased spending power. You’ve sacrificed enough for a while.

Derek M. LaVallee, director of public relations & public affairs at Kemp Goldberg Partners and certified wine buff, can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

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