Democrats or Republicans? The classic political rivalry is hardly the only one raging in Washington.  

Now there is a new dilemma for anyone seeking a classy local spot to nurse a drink and nibble: Veritas or Vinoteca?

Both are wine bars with the sophisticated ambiance of a Manhattan bistro and a long list of cheeses and meats for food pairing. But which should you pick?

Veritas is unquestionably the sexier spot. Even its location, tucked beneath the neon façade of the Russia House on the north end of Dupont, suggests hushed romance. Inside its dark and brick-dappled environs, the glow from energy-saving electric candles illuminates the smiling faces of couples touching knees beneath the elevated tables.

But the sounds of Veritas are a far cry from the sights. During my visits, the small room was so packed with satisfied Shiraz sippers that companions had to holler to each other from feet away.

The din is largely good news for the wine bar’s owners, signaling a runaway popularity, but the noise may eventually drive away potential patrons. I quote a fellow Veritas aficionado: “They should just buy up the Russia House and take over the block!”

Expansion isn’t the only change that would benefit Veritas, however. Although the wine list resembles a child’s encyclopedia, the 60-plus varieties by the glass are disproportionately heavy on American vines, including 22 from California but only five from Italy and one from Argentina.

You’re likely to forget about regional bias after tasting the irresistible wine “flights,” which offer three complementary glasses at a price perfect for sharing.

Three particularly fun flights are “Sideways,” a trio of winning West Coast red blends that pays homage to the popular movie; “Antipodean,” a group from Down Under that should put you off cheap Yellowtail wine forever; and “On the Sweeter Side,” full of lip-smacking citrus that puts a new spin on dessert.

After a few swigs of sangiovese, hunger is bound to set in. Veritas has an impressive cheese menu, with the creamy luxury of soft cows and goats such as Fourme d’Ambert and Humbolt Fog balanced by the zesty snap of a superior Irish Cashel blue and Italian pecorino.

The charcuterie board leaves something to be desired, with the thinly sliced meats arriving in one giant lump instead of spread out for easy serving. Still, at the approachable price of $11 per large plate, and with kicky dressings such as quince jam and cornichon pickles, the cuisine matches well with its alcoholic accompaniments.

The chic Veritas experience hardly suffers from the absence of an entrée menu or for having ear-straining acoustics. But talkative servers further undo the ambiance. After indulging in the lemony buzz of French Nicolas Feuillatte champagne, no one wants to hear that its pet name behind the bar is “Nicky Foo.”

Vinoteca, the second contestant in the city’s wine bar face-off, has a more casual charm that reflects a stated mission of “being active in the community.” Housed in a converted row house off U Street, its bar area is separated from the more classic main dining room by a row of vivid, scarlet tiles that the bar’s four partners installed by hand.

Soft globe lights dangle from the ceiling, while a centrally located service table holds extra squares of crusty Italian bread. These come in handy if your server disappears and you need a refill — as I ended up discovering. If service at Veritas can be too friendly, the staff at Vinoteca is more likely to leave diners hanging during their meal.

Yet the food is a homey hit, designed by recent culinary school graduate Russell Jones to incorporate solid takes on all the current gourmet trends. The miniature burgers, known as sliders, play a starring role, with five juicy types on a rich, buttered bun: I delighted in the tuna with garlic aioli, but the lamb with goat cheese and beef with aged cheddar are equally savory.

The endive salad blends creamy blooms of Roquefort cheese in perfect champagne vinaigrette, sweet but not cloying.

Homemade raviolis, one pumpkin-wheat and one ham-sage, are hearty cohorts to wine but use flavors light enough to keep the drinks from weighing you down.

Vinoteca plans to play with its menu next month, swapping out some less successful dishes, but look for its satisfying happy-hour deals on sliders, sandwiches and soups to remain.

The wine list at Vinoteca fits its lower-key vibe, with approachable reds and simple, sweet whites that stay in the $10 range.

Although there is nary a bad glass among the more than 60 on offer, don’t be surprised if you see names that are familiar from the aisles of upscale supermarkets.

I began with the softly spicy and plum-spiked Fairvalley Pinotage from South Africa, and found a new standard in Navarro Correas, an Argentinian Malbec label with a heady rush of tannins on the tongue. The menu is short on more adventurous blends and omits the popular Spanish Rioja grape entirely— wine flights will arrive soon, the owners vow.

While Vinoteca achieves a better regional balance, it fights Veritas to a draw thanks to safer choices and ­a dearth of sparkling wines (try the peppery finish of a 10-year-old port wine instead). Of course, as we’re finding in this year of unsettled presidential campaigns, the lack of a clear winner is a good thing. Both venues are worthy to host another rollicking debate: Wine bars or beer pubs?