The weather is cold. The urge to eat comfort food and hibernate is strong. Thank goodness for Eric Hilton’s new venture, Marvin, where hip meets cozy in the heart of the U Street corridor.

Hilton, half of the famed Thievery Corporation, named the restaurant after music legend Marvin Gaye, adding to a neighborhood already dotted with tributes to D.C.’s all-time greats — apartment buildings named for poet Langston Hughes, Langston Lofts, and the Ellington, named for jazz genius Duke, are located blocks away.

Marvin gives potential diners two options: one, go upstairs and enjoy appetizers and libations while a DJ mans the turntables nearby; or stay downstairs, where white-clothed tables and a soft amber glow illuminate the dining area.

 Either way, it’s hard to go wrong.

 The menu is small enough to preclude indecision, but large enough to provide a good blend of Belgian-inspired fare and soul food. The appetizers include such tempting offerings as shrimp and grits, duck confit and apple-glazed baby back ribs.

The food is delicious, yet there’s reason to resist a rush to eat: There’s beer to explore. Marvin offers five types on tap and seven by the bottle (three different types of Chimay). Try Abita or Maudite on tap. Both are rich in taste without being too filling and complement the flavors on the menu. By the bottle, Delirium Tremens is always a good choice. Despite its name (it’s Latin for a condition associated with alcohol withdrawal), the slightly spicy beer is heavier than those on draft and works well when eating lighter dishes, such as the moules frites.

Speaking of the moules frites (mussels and fries, for the French-impaired), they are not to be missed — as an appetizer to share or as an entree. While they come in five different varieties, the creamy coconut curry mussels satisfy both the savory and sweet sides of the palate. The shallots, fennel and white wine variety serve as a lighter alternative. No matter the flavor selected, the fries arrive crispy and hot.

 Another culinary standout is the Alaskan halibut. Executive Chef James Claudio serves the light fish with onion puree, tomato confit and beurre blanc. It is so well prepared that a touch with a fork makes the delicate white folds collapse onto the plate.

 Unfortunately for the sweet potato pasta, the halibut is a hard act to follow. Even though the pasta was cooked al dente and the presentation was exquisite, it tasted bland compared to the other entrees.

 For the famished, the chicken and waffles is a must. The large piece of golden fried chicken, placed precariously atop a thick Belgian waffle, is a carbohydrate lover’s dream. The dish is served with brussels sprouts that are so well seasoned and tender that they avoid the fate of their brethren served by mothers everywhere (read: discarded under the table; fed to unwitting dog; placed strategically in napkin).

 The dessert menu is sparse and even though the waitress recommended the apple cobbler a la mode, the Belgian chocolate was chosen. The waitress was probably right, for the chocolate dessert was disappointing. The gelato melted quickly into the tiny waffle, which was submerged in a pool of chocolate by the time it was consumed. That said, after the meal, there was little room left for even the most delectable dessert offering.

 Assuming diners are still mobile after they feast at Marvin, they can venture up a dark, wood-paneled stairwell into a lounge area with chairs covered in green jacquard fabric and leather booths. The room seems to beg for intellectual conversations and philosophical musings. The relaxed lounge setting is no accident. The décor echoes that of 18th Street Lounge, located in downtown Washington, which is also owned by Hilton.

 The bar is small, and early in the evening it is populated by regulars chatting up the bartender and adding in their own way to the laid-back ambiance.

 As the night wears on, the lounge fills with an attractive, eclectic crowd of people and the DJ increases the volume.

Guests spill onto the tikki-themed patio (lined with heaters during the winter months) to continue their conversations outdoors.

 Although it only opened in November, Marvin has quickly become a destination for the young and hip set; lines of well-dressed 20-, 30- and 40-somethings stream out the door on weekends.

Despite the trendy-heeled clientele, the atmosphere manages to strike a balance between cool and pretentious – more of the former than the latter.

That said, given the place’s popularity, be sure to make a reservation. Marvin may not be exclusive, but without one, prospective patrons may not make it in the door.