Though construction on the tower at 19th and M streets has thinned business since late last year according to one server, downtown’s Mai Thai offers great starters, entrees, noodle dishes, desserts and drinks for a good value. The décor creates a moadern, yet welcoming atmosphere. Particularly impressive were the traditional red clay carvings that line the walls, and the dining room, which sits 200, was cozy, with recessed lighting that is pleasant without putting the “spotlight” on you and your conversation.

I settled into a two-person booth, a great option for couples, and was greeted by quick and efficient servers. Appetizers, which range from $4 to $9, include choices like papaya salad with vegetables and peanuts tossed with a lime dressing, and fried calamari served with sweet and sour sauce.

I settled on the fresh garden rolls. The cross-section presentation of the rolls shows a blend of crisp vegetables, fresh herbs and rice noodles. All the intended flavors and textures “showed up,” particularly the fresh mint and cilantro leaves. Note that a little bit of the “special sauce,” a soy and sweet plum sauce served with crushed peanuts, goes a long way. These rolls are a great vegetarian choice for a lighter main course.

It was a perfect starter, but the savory and sometimes spicy flavors of Mai Thai’s many seafood, poultry, meat and vegetarian entrees and noodle dishes are not to be missed.

The Phuket Sea Breeze, a mixture of shrimp, scallops, squid and mussels sautéed with chili paste, egg and vegetables is a great seafood option. The calamari was a bit chewy, and there was noticeably more of it than shrimp or scallops. But the “mild” sauce, a one out of three on the spice scale (ranked by the number of red chili peppers printed on the menu next to the dish), was delicious without being too rich, and a great flavoring for the steamed rice that comes as a side.

There are also many choices for those who like it spicy, like the Ka Pow, a choice of meat sautéed with ground chili, vegetables, and fresh basil. For those who are intrigued by more exotic dishes, the Pad Poh Tack would seem to be a good choice. The dish is a mixture of seafood with flavorings like aromatic kaffir lime leaves, and krachai and galangal, roots similar to ginger that are traditionally added to Thai fish curries.

The dessert menu is less extensive, with choices like sticky rice with coconut cream and mango, and green tea, coconut, lychee, or mango ice cream. All sweet choices would help put out any “fires” after enjoying one of Mai Thai’s spicier dishes. Desserts are priced between $3.50 and $6.50.