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Home arrow Food & Drink arrow Other Restaurants arrow The Monocle A family affair with a touch of celebrity
Other Restaurants PDF Print E-mail
The Monocle A family affair with a touch of celebrity
Posted: 05/04/06 12:00 AM [ET]

Family is the heart and soul of the Monocle, the enduring restaurant located just steps from the Hart and Dirksen Senate office buildings, just as it is for its owner, John Valanos.

Everything about the restaurant pays homage to the storied history of Washington. Gilded brass and dark wood dominate the landscape, broken up by tablecloths, delicate flowers and pictures of famous politicians, among them President John F. Kennedy, who while a senator often had the Monocle’s prime-rib sandwiches delivered to his office.

It is clear that Valanos, 50, respects both past and present lawmakers, but he reserves his real passion for his children, Eleni, 15, and Constantine, 13. Valanos’s face lights up when he talks about them while enjoying a medium-rare flatiron steak at an opulent corner table.

He insists that he wants his kids to find careers that make them happy but admits he’s reluctant to give up the business that his parents, Conrad and Helen Valanos, started in 1960.

“It would be nice to keep it going forever,” he says.

The Monocle truly is a family affair. Valanos’s wife, Vasiliki, comes in a few days week to handle the books. He views his employees, some of whom share his Greek ancestry, as members of his extended family.

Valanos says that he draws far more excitement serving families than in meeting politicians, lobbyists or even celebrities: “You know what I love? I love it when families come in — I love that. I love meeting youngsters who [are here for] their first time in Washington.”

Still, it’s not uncommon for celebrities to stop by. Recently, California Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger, Robert De Niro, Martin Scorsese, Geena Davis, Kelly Preston and Bo Derek have made appearances.

Boredom is never an issue. “It’s kind of like running a show everyday, and that’s intriguing and that’s interesting,” he says.

Tourists have inquired most about Elizabeth Taylor’s visits when she was married to Sen. John Warner (R-Va.), asking questions such as “What did she eat?” (some sort of seafood) and “Where did she sit?” (He doesn’t remember.)

Being so close to the Capitol has instilled a sort of dignified patriotism. “It’s in my blood,” Valanos says. “I wouldn’t enjoy this job so much if I didn’t love politics.”

It certainly helps him make conversation and recognize the faces of his clientele. Just a few tables over, Chief Justice John Roberts is dining with several young clerks.

Even so, most of the time he doesn’t know if a politician is a Democrat or a Republican. He sees recent congressional scandals as products of a few bad apples, not widespread political corruption.

Valanos says he has never seen politicians having heated arguments in his restaurant, at least not without some liquid courage.

“Later in the evening in the ballroom after a few glasses of wine they might get into a political argument,” he says. “That’s all in fun; there is nothing political about it.”

He only reveals his political views after some prodding but prefaces his disclosure by saying he’s really an independent.

“I’m a registered Republican,” he says. … “I don’t really wear it on my lapel.”

Valanos decided to manage the Monocle after he earned a finance degree from the University of Maryland. After college, he went to cooking school.

He says he welcomes a chance to brush up on his cooking skills. Recently his chef had a family emergency, so Valanos stepped in to manage the kitchen.

“I went back there and sort of organized and cooked a little bit. I enjoyed it a lot,” he says.

After cooking school, he became very particular about what is on the menu. Calf’s liver with caramelized onions and bacon and rare sesame-crusted tuna with Oriental sauce are among his unique selections. Valanos’s favorite dish is bone-in rib-eye steak with chili butter.

But even in the menu, Valanos’s emphasis on family is evident. He is especially proud of the Crab Conrad, a lump crabmeat dish named after his father.

“I wanted to honor him,” he says.

 
 
 
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